Tuesday, December 23, 2008

A NEW TRIP TO SOUTH AMERICA

That's right, once again I go to South America...and considering that this will be my fifth trip down there in six years I'd have to admit that I seem to be hooked on the place. As usual, with the surroundings here enveloped in the typical cold and snow of late December, the knowl;edge that summer has just begun in the lands below the equator always seems to drive my desire to return.

But now there is something else that drives me, and that is the accumulated friendships I have made in Chile and Argentina over the course of my previous four adventure journeys. Of course, my arrival will be welcomed as it always has been in the past by my good friend and agent in Santiago, Andres Gabor, who will be putting me up in that great city and will once again supply me with a decent rental vehicle. Then I plan to hit the road - only a short drive this time - to go back out to the coast of the South Pacific to stay once again in Cabaña Numero 5, at Las Siete Cabañas in El Tabo, once again reunited with my friends Diego and Luisa, their two kids Diego Jr. and Connie, and (I suspect) the dogs El Negro and Lorenzo...

Sadly however, the current severe economic recession has eaten into my financial reserves with a vengeance, leaving me with less to travel on, so I have forced myself to limit this trip to a mere two weeks in Chile - eight days on the coast and six days in Santiago. But at least I can "service" my South American obsession to some degree, and hopefully I can plan a more ambitious trip for a year from now.

Speaking of it as an obsession has always made me speculate as to how long it has been a part of me, and I confess that a part of me has always felt a yearning to wander down there and go exploring. I have saved an old photo that my father took of me - which I believe was taken when I was just in the 7th grade. It shows me putting the finishing touches on a rather striking salt-relief map of South America which was a project for my social studies class. I can remember how much care and diligence I put into making that map, and I also recall how much pride I took in the finished project. Here you can take a look at that old picture..
Anyway, I will be flying out of Salt Lake City on Monday, December 29. The first leg of the journey will put me down in Atlanta, where I will change planes and make the overnight non-stop flight to Santiago, Chile. My scheduled arrival will be in the morning of December 30. I will overnight with Andres and then the next day take a rental car, a Fiat, I believe, and drive out to El Tabo and settle in - in time, I figure, to celebrate New Year's with Diego and his family, and watch the fireworks at Midnight over the bay to the south as the residents of the port of San Antonio celebrate the advent of 2009.
Then after enjoying a week's worth of beachcombing, reading and just relaxing, I will drive back into Santiago to hang out with Andres and his family and to take in the sights and the food in the big city before my return flight leaves on the evening of January 13th. The return should get me back to Salt Lake City at about 10:30 a.m. on the 14th - which will give me plenty of time to drive home to Nevada.
So there it is. I encourage you all to visit this blog whenever you wish during my absence as I will again try to post regular updates as to my whereabouts and what I am up to...so you can vicariously come along with me!

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

FAREWELL TO FRIENDS, FAREWELL TO THE COAST

Yesterday I said my farewells to my friends Diego and Luisa Savignone, who are the caretakers who run the quiet and peaceful little collection of cabins known as Las Siete Cabañas on the central Chilean Pacific coast at El Tabo, the modest-sized resort hamlet just south of Neruda´s Isla Negra and due west of Santiago. It was the end of practically four full weeks of rest and relaxation for yours truly, and a sad moment for all as we bid adieu before my final drive into Santiago. During that time, I´d enjoyed the full gamut of the famous Chilean hospitality from these two wonderful hosts, especially the many good times spent chatting, joking and laughing over morning coffee, during Luisa´s famous almuerzos (lunches), or just out and about on the grounds of Las Siete Cabañas.
It was also my final goodbye to that little dog, El Negro, as well as to Diego and Luisa´s daughter Connie and her boyfriend Bastien, and goodbye to my own Cabaña No. 5, which had been my home for the entire time since my arrival on December 19th. Unfortunately, I was not able to take a last look out to view the waves crashing on the long sandy beach belowthe cabañas, because the morning fog was so thick yesterday morning. But that´s okay.
I did spend a bit more time with Luisa, as she took advantage of my return to Santiago to hitch a ride along with me for free so that she could see a doctor about some muscle problems in her hand. She rode along with me as far as my friend Andres´ office here in Santiago Centro, from where she took one of the city buses to her son Alvaro´s apartment, where she is currently staying until Friday.
So today I am ensconced here in Santiago, taking full advantage of my full access to the web on one of the computers here in the offices of Andres´ businesses, ChileCellRent, Lys Rent-A-Car and AbsolutChile, his travel agency. It looks as if my last few days here, staying in one of Andres´ apartments over on Calle Mosqueto (on the other side of the block here in Santiago Centro) will be peaceful and completely uneventful as I enjoy the food, sights and sounds of the Chilean capitol during the lingering days before my flight back to the USA leaves on Saturday night. Whether or not I will be posting anything more here on the blog before my departure will depend on if, for some reason, something worthy of writing about occurs. But I have my doubts.
It´s been a different sort of trip, of course, largely thanks to that nasty explosion that happened back on December 11th. If that had not happened, I´d have gone forward from San Pedro de Atacama and crossed the cordillera into Argentina to experience whatever sort of adventures I´ll never know of now. But I would not have been able to spend such quality time with such fine people as Diego and Luisa Savignone. Memories of that time spent will stay with me forever, and will certainly stand out as the highlight of this, my fourth visit to South America.

Wednesday, January 09, 2008

RUNNING OUT THE CLOCK

Here on the central Chilean coast, time passes by slowly, defined mostly by the ebb and flow of tourists coming out to spend a few days relaxing on the beach, usually for a well-deserved break from the stresses of an urban life in the metropolis of Santiago, which is only a couple of hours drive inland from this modest-sized resort town of El Tabo.
But for yours truly, this stay has been something a bit different. By the time I will finally depart from here on my final return to Santiago on the 15th of January, I will have spent the better part of a full month (four weeks) enjoying the peace and quiet of my rented cabaña here at "Las 7 Cabañas."
Now I suppose that some people might think I´ve retreated from the original expressed intent of going off on another adventure, and they´re right. But when one takes a look at the way things are here currently, especially in regards to the costs involved in continuing to drive great distances across the length or breadth of the so-called "Southern Cone" of South America, then the picture takes on a different hue.
One factor which really stands out in my mind has been the dramatic slide in the value of the U.S. dollar in relation to the Chilean peso. When I came here for the first time, in November 2002, one dollar could buy 735 Chilean pesos. Now, as of this morning´s currency exchange rate, a dollar will only get you 487 pesos, and that´s down from the 505 pesos it could buy back when I arrived here in late November, 2007. A big reason for this fall has been the continued rise in the price of copper (which just went up by a stunning 5% at the beginning of this week), and Chile is just about the world´s leading producer of copper, which is one reason why Chile´s economy is surging. Add to that the whole myriad of factors which are depressing the value of the dollar, and you can see that making a trip like this has become a very expensive proposition.
Another factor has been the stunningly steep price for gasoline here, as elsewhere. When I started out on my drive northward from Santiago back on the 1st of December, I immediately was shocked at the much higher price for fuel from what it had been back during my last trip of February-March 2007. Now, as most of you know, my plan had been to drive north as far as San Pedro de Atacama and then to cross the frontier into Argentina, and then work my way gradually back south. Well, the explosion in the pickup truck on December 11th effectively ended that plan, but I still had a long way to drive - to get back to Santiago by retracing my steps instead of touring through NW Argentina. What I am saying is that even though I didn´t do Argentina, I still consumed the gas. The long drive up to San Pedro and back (3600 km, or about 2232 miles) cost me a total of 243,550 Chilean pesos. Converting that to U.S. currency at the 500 pesos per dollar rate, that´s $487 dollars spent just for gas, to travel that distance. And if you are wondering, my calculations, converting pesos to dollars and liters to gallons, indicate that my average price for gas was a stunning $5.33/gallon. To me, those are fairly sobering figures to contemplate. . .
Anyway, as I´ve said, for me, the December 11 explosion effectively ended this trip. But I still had over five weeks left until my flight back to the USA was scheduled (and I had a no-change clause in that contract), so my choices were limited to: 1.) buying another ticket entirely, a pricey one-way ticket; or, 2.) make the best of it, and spend as little as possible. In reality, there was only one choice, then. I remembered having enjoyed the tranquility of my two previous stays here in El Tabo, and since I was not wanting to spend oodles of cash for gas nor did I want to encounter any more unexpected setbacks, it was an easy call to return.
And the Savignones (the caretakers here) also had pleasant memories of my previous stays, so they graciously rented me their cabaña no. 5 for approximately four weeks duration. Also, they gave me a price break, giving me the place for the cheaper December rate of 20,000 pesos/day ($40 USD) instead of the standard January rate of 30,000 pesos/day ($60 USD).
As far as most of the time here, I´d say it was a great choice. But there has been one unfortunate development. That little street dog´I´d made friends with, "El Negro," unfortunately had a bad case of pulgas (fleas), and quickly that became a problem for me, too, as some of the buggers climbed off of Negro and started giving me some very itchy bites! I had to get out the Jungle Juice and apply it daily to my torso while at the same time it was necessary to de-bug the cabaña with a strong dose of Raid. Even a bath couldn´t rid poor Negro of his nasty little buggers, so I have had to chase him away whenever he has come around, and if he stops to take a nap on the porch of the cabaña, I get the Raid out and give the porch a thorough dousing. Thankfully, after treating the cabaña and exiling Negro from my premises while also keeping him at a distance, I am no longer being bitten. It´s sad, because he is such a friendly little dog, but the fact of the matter is, you do what you have to do.
Anyway, regardless of the fact that I´ve had to stop being friendly with little Negro, I am continuing to enjoy this time here. But there´s only six nights more before I return to Santiago and spend a final few days there before the flight home. So it is.


Wednesday, January 02, 2008

BOOKS ON THE BEACH: THIS TRIP´S MOST NOTABLE TITLES

As usual, when I am on an extended South American road trip like this, I do a lot of reading. And my expressed purpose for this post will be to highlight some of the books which have caught my attention and as such, have captured my imagination.
But before I get into that, I just want to say that my days spent here in El Tabo have been, despite the fact that I am no longer "touring" as in previous trips down here, have been most rewarding. And the rewards have been of a different sort - also because on the surface it might appear as if I´ve simply given up and gone off to do beachcombing instead of going on with my exploring...
These rewards have come from my ongoing daily contact with the Savignone family, Diego and Luisa, and their children Diego (the younger) and Constanza, aka "Connie," as well as from Luisa´s extended family who joined us for a real whopper of a New Year´s Eve celebration. These people have become very good friends, and I am amazed now at how much my Spanish-speaking abilities have grown through my daily contacts with them all. So in addition to the friendship, that´s a real reward - something to treasure. But it will certainly require me to try to find a way to keep that broadened Spanish ability nurtured, which won´t exactly be easy once I am back in the United States.
But now, on to the books. The first one I want to speak of actually was a gift - given to me by the younger Diego Savignone upon his return from an end-of-school-year trip to Brazil. In my previous stops in El Tabo I´ve always gotten into some lintersting and lively discussions with this bright young man, and these discussions have often reached into the realms of intellectual discussions, at least as far as my limited Spanish would allow. But this time we really got to talking, and the topic quickly turned into a discussion of great Latin American writers, and it eventually became a discussion about the work of the amazing Argentine author, Jorge Luis Borges (1899-1986). Eventually, Diego said to me, "Tio, I have a book for you to read. It is written by a Chileño, a fellow named Waldemar Verdugo, entitled En Voz de Borges (which would translate roughly to "Borges in his own Words") The above picture shows the cover of this book, and the small image shows the book´s author, Verdugo, reading to Borges himself, who in his later years was quite blind.
Yes, in his later years Borges went blind, in sort of the same ironic way that the great composer Beethoven went deaf. That, of course, is a fact, but it is not the subject of this remarkable little book. Verdugo had the good fortune to get to know Borges fairly well back in the 1970´s, and he later gathered together the materials for this unique biographical revelation of the life and work of this cerebral Argentine writer and got it published, initially in Mexico in 1981, and finally, re-published in 2006 in Chile. The book delves deeply into the mind of Borges while at the same time it examines his various writings. As such, it could be seen as the perfect Borges primer for anyone interested in the poetry, stories and essays that he wrote during his lifetime, but even more than that, it opens up for us a very precious window into what exactly made Borges become the visionary writer who is today so revered in literary circles, in Latin America and in the world at large.
Verdugo brings us close to the great author´s prime influences, and elaborates on these various people, movements and subjects so that the reader can have a much better idea of the man Jorge Luis Borges. One of the people most influential on Borges had been his father, who early on had impressed upon his son the idea that, "...of all the diverse instruments created by man, the most astonishing one has been, beyond a doubt, the book. The others have been simply extensions of the body. The microscope and telescope are extensions of our vision; the telephone is an extension of our voice; the wheel an extension of our feet; the shovel and the plow are extensions of our arms...but the book is quite another thing, the book is an extension of our memory and our imagination." If time and space would permit, I would go on with the rest of that quote, but here in a cyber café time is money, and I do expect that I will need to move on as well to try to cover some other books.
But still on the Borges book, Verdugo goes into other influences, including Argentina and its culture, including the city of Buenos Aires, its poor neighborhoodsand their glorious offspring, the tango; 0ther Argentine authors and publishers, including Alfonso Reyes, Aldofo Bioy Casares (who collaborated with Borges for a time), Victoria Ocampo and others. He also delves into the books that so moved Borges, such as Dante´s Divine Comedy as well as the works of scores of other great authors, many of whose works were available to Borges at a very young age in his father´s massive library.
The book looks at how Borges worked for a time as a film critic in order to earn his daily bread, and how deeply enchanted he had become with the actress Greta Garbo and the films she had made, while he came to believe that the "Western" genre of film was something of this era´s real epic art form, such as the fabled greek epics from Homer and other writers in ancient times because the Westerns brough back the concept of the "hero," which Borges felt had been an essential literary device which had been largely abandoned by contemporary writers.
And in that vein, Borges eschewed much of the current writing from many authors who sought to write in deep, dark, and largely obscure modes, "forgetting that clarity, besides being a form of the truth, represents a courtesy to the reader."
Verdugo also goes deeply into Borges´views of life, loove, women, politics and all manner of similar essential parts of this life, but now I must reconsider my space and time and conclude by saying that I found the book to be almost electric in its imagery, and as such, I simply devoured it. It was (and is) a very special gift from young Diego.
Now another book I have been reading (I´m not finished yet) has been a veritable epic of Russian Literature: Life and Fate, by Vasily Grossman (1905-1964). Grossman was a Russian Jew who was one of the greatest Soviet war correspondents during World War II, covering both the battle of Stalingrad and the battle of Berlin. After the war, he molded his intimate experiences at the front into this book, which Verlyn Klinkenborg of the New York Times has described as being "arguably the greatest Russian novel of the 20th century."
Now I could go on and recount the drift of this massive (871 pages) work in my own words, but I think that the summary on the back cover of the New York Review Of Books edition will give a much more concise overview:
"A book judged so dangerous in the Soviet Union that not only the manuscript but the ribbons on which it had been typed were confiscated by the state, Life and Fate is an epic tale of World War II and a profound reckoning with the dark forces that dominated the twentieth century. Interweaving a transfixing account of the battle of Stalingrad with the story of a single middle-class family, the Shaposhnikovs, scattered by fortune from Germany to Siberia, Vasily Grossman fashions an immense, intricately detailed tapestry depicting a time of almost unimaginable horror and even stranger hope. Life and Fate juxtaposes bedrooms and sniper´s nests, scientific laboratories and the Gulag, taking us deep into the hearts and minds of characters ranging from a boy on his way to the gas chambers to Hitler and Stalin themselves. This novel of unsparing realism and visionary moral intensity is one of the supreme achievements of modern Russian literature."
It is a work often compared to Chekhov, and bears a structure loosely based on Tolstoy´s War and Peace. What I am feeling as I move towards the conclusion is a powerful feeling that I am in the midst of reading a work of clear genius - filled with great warmth and power.
As I close out this post, I would at least like to mention one other book which I´ve read on this trip, and that is Noam Chomsky´s most current offering, entitled What We Say Goes, which is a scathing visionary look at American foreign policy and how successive U.S. governments have seen fit to throw their weight around the entire planet, as if it belonged to the USA. It is a highly disturbing and sobering essay, but it so enthralled me that I found myself reading it twice, before giving my copy away to my friend and agent in Santiago, Andres Gabor.