Monday, January 12, 2009

STROLLING AROUND SANTIAGO CENTRO

Considering that this is the end of my fifth trip to Chile, I would normally not be making a special trip around the city madly shooting snapshots of famous landmarks, but considering that there might be several of you who are checking into this blog who might like to see such photos, that´s exactly what I did on Saturday, with the plan to post a half-dozen pictures here for general consumption.
This first picture was taken along the Alameda Bernardo O´Higgins not far from Cerro Santa Lucia. It shows the front building of the Universidad de Chile. Strolling a bit further down along the Alameda one eventually comes to El Palacio La Moneda, which is the Chilean Presidential Palace, shown in this next photo:
La Moneda is the seat of Chile´s government, the place where current President Michelle Bachelet has her offices. It is also the scene where the martyred former President Salvador Allende lost his life during the Pinochet golpe de estado which happened on September 11, 1973, a date which marks Chilean history like no other. The next picture is of the memorial statue of Salvador Allende, which is in front of the Justice Ministry and faces La Moneda:

This next picture shows some of the striking buildings in Santiago´s financial district. The streets are fairly quiet because it was Saturday. Otherwise, they would be humming with activity:

Now we come to the famous Plaza de Armas, and this next picture shows the grand Iglesia Catedral, which fairly dominates the view to the noorthwest from the heart of the plaza:


Finally, here is a picture of the statue of the Conquistador of Chile, Pedro de Valdivia, located in the northeast corner of the plaza:


Well, there you have it. I quickie glimpse of some of the landmarks of the city of Santiago. Now, my flight back to the USA leaves here tomorrow night at 10:30 local time. The flight is non-stop overnight to Atlanta, GA, where I will be changing planes for a flight to Salt Lake City, UT, where my car is parked. My scheduled arrival in Salt Lake will be 10:30 a.m. on the morning of the 14th, and I will plan to go from there driving westward to my home in Wells, Nevada.
Actually, I am thinking that this will be my last post for this time around from South America. Tomorrow will be a bit of a touchy day since I have been having a number of communication connection problems with my friend and agent Andres Gabor. There seems to be a bit of a problem with the cell phone network, so I will be spending most of my time trying to get through to him to ensure that I make it alright tomorrow night out to the airport.
Regardless, it has been a good time, and I do hope that you have enjoyed following my monologue here once again. Chao, amigos!





Friday, January 09, 2009

LOS TRES CABALLEROS

So here´s the three hardest working obreros at Las Siete Cabañas. The little guy on the left in the sleeveless muscle shirt is Carlos. I can remember how crazy he got singing Beatles songs on New Year´s Eve...he had the words down perfectly even if he didn´t have the slightest idea what those words meant. On the right, in the green Jameson´s Whisky shirt is Orlando, who actually happens to be one damn fine guitar player. And finally, the big guy in the middle is none other than Diego Parada Savignone himself, crew leader and manager of the cabañas.
Actually, I snapped this photo only minutes before leaving El Tabo for my return drive into Santiago. These three characters were, along with Diego´s wife Luisa, my best friends for the eight days I spent there, and I know that they are hopeful that I can muster up another trip to Chile and a posible return to El Tabo in December, but that´s another story.
I made it back into Santiago without incident, and actually feel a bit of pride in the fact that I was able to navigate the highways and easily find Andres´new office in the barrio Los Condes. After I got back, he put me up in his apartment in El Centro on Calle Mosqueto, and so today I have been taking in once again the sights of this superb downtown.
Unfortunately I have been having a bit of a task trying to re-connect with Andres, and since he forgot to get me a cell phone I have had to frequent one or another of the so-called "Centro de Llamados," which are glorified telephone booths, usually doubling as internet cafes as well to try to call Andres. I did get ahold of him this morning, and, thinking that we would be getting together for almuerzo (lunch), I was a bit surprised when he told me he would be too preoccupied and for me to call him after 7 p.m. because he was going to make arrangements for us to get together this weekend for a barbecue. Well, that sounded nice, and I did my part - waiting until after 7 p.m. to call him. But all I got was his voice mail, so I figure that things are particularly insane for him right now as he is taking in his kids this weekend and will be shopping for food etc. So I just told his voice mail I´d try again in the morning.
So Santiago is hot. Yes, HOT. I mean temperature-wise. Like it is almost 8 p.m. as I type this in the internet cafe, and the temperatures must still be in the upper 80´s (F). And there´s no end in sight for the heat until I get on my return flight home to the cold winter in the USA.
Anyway, I´ll try to shoot some photos of some of the major city landmarks here in El Centro Santiago for my next post. Until then, amigos...

Wednesday, January 07, 2009

BOOKS ON ON THE BEACH 2009: RIDING WITH THE CAVALRY



Okay, so everyone knows that when I take up residence in a place like this for some hard-core R&R, I usually bring along half a suitcase full of books. Well, this time, with my stay here at Las Siete Cabañas set for only eight days (today is my last day), I only brought along a couple of titles, so the suitcase is lighter. But I´ve still been able to while away plenty of hours reading, and I would like to tell you a little bit about this trip´s chosen books.


It is not by coincidence that both books relate to the exploits of cavalrymen in battle, because a few weeks before my departure I had been investigating the war poetry of the late, great British poet Wilfred Owen, who wrote some really incredible verse describing his experiences in the trenches during World War One. Unfortunately, Owen was killed in battle shortly before that war concluded, but not before he had written his war poems. Anyway, I purchased a copy of the Collected Works of Wilfred Owen, but that is not one of the books I will be writing about today. You see, my investigation on Owen brought to my attention the work of another writer, one who wrote prose instead of poetry, but whose literary efforts were superbly poetic in their own way. That author happens to be a Jewish Russian war correspondent (like Vasily Grossman, whose sprawling epic Life and Fate had captured my imagination when I was here on the beach last January) who is now considered to be a giant of 20th Century Russian Literature, Isaac Babel. Babel´s place in the pantheon of great Russian authors grew out of a vast body of work, and particularly out of his early masterpiece, the Red Cavalry cycle. Now I will get deeper into Babel shortly, but first I want to discuss another book, El Húsar (The Hussar), by the noted Spanish author, Arturo Pérez-Reverte, which I was inspired to bring along with me as a cavalry "companion" to the Babel book, specifically to read here on the beach.










El Húsar. by Arturo Pérez-Reverte. (Written in Spanish)


I originally bought this book in October 2005, at the FeriaChilena Del Libro in Santiago Centro. This book was Pérez-Reverte´s first attempt at authorship, written in1983. It is set in Andalucia, Spain in the year 1808, in the midst of the Peninsular War, also known as the Spanish War of Independence, in which France fought against Spain, Great Britain and Portugal for control of the Iberian Peninsula during the Napoleonic Wars. The novel follows the exploits of Fredric Glüntz, a young, 19 year-old sub-lieutenant in Napoleon´s vaunted light cavalry, specifically, in the 4th Regimento de Húsares, at the time posted to Spain and about ready to engage the forces of both the Spanish army as well as the much-feared partisans known as guerrilleros (the English word for partisan fighters, or guerillas came from these very fighters).



Before I left on this current trip I could recall having been fairly blown away by how this book unfolded when I first read it back in 2005, and decided that I´d like to perhaps read it again with an eye towards perhaps someday translating it into English, so I tucked it away in my suitcase along with Babel´s Red Cavalry, to be read again, here in El Tabo.



Actually, I did a bit of fact checking on the works of Pérez-Reverte to see if in fact an English translation of El Húsar indeed exists, and my preliminary search came up fairly inconclusive. I did learn that the 2005 Spanish edition I was reading had gone out of print, but also learned that the author had originally refused to let any of his works be translated into English, although he had later allowed several of his works to be translated, including his famous The Fencing Master and Flanders Panel (which won France´s Grand Prize for Dectective Literature). Apparently his most popular book to date, Captain Alartriste, has not been translated, but I found mention of an English translation of El Húsar, but no availability whatsoever.



Anyway, the story follows sub-lieutenant Glüntz, an idealistic new hussar in the ranks, as he and his companios prepare for a major battle on the fields of Andalucia. The author applies painstaking detail in his descriptions of the cavalrymen, their uniforms and equipment, and while he concentrates on Glüntz, he also spends significant time developing his companions, especially his best friend, another sub-lieutenant, Michel de Bourmont. The story evolves through the course of one day, starting at before daybreak and moving forward towards the enivatible climactic cavalry charge folowing early skirmishes and concluding with the grim reconciliation of the story in which young Glüntz´s wide-eyed idealism and dreams of the glory to be gained in this war in service to the Emperor is utterly crushed beneath the sheer horror of the actual combat. I cannot begin to replicate the power of Pérez-Reverte´s narrative but will say that it comes at you like a sledge hammer, hitting with full force as the story unfolds. The reviews I read regarding this extraordinary first effort by Pérez-Reverte state that this is far from his best work, but the seeds of the greatness that came to flower in The Fencing Master and in Captain Alartriste are fully contained within the pages of El Húsar. If I do not go forward to attempt to translate this work, I will certainly want to follow up this second read by obtaining at least the above two novels for future reading.










Red Cavalry. by Isaac Babel (Original Russian translated into English by Peter Constantine)
Isaac Babel was born in Odessa in 1894. He started writing in 1916, although his primary output came in the years 1923-1924. His basic genre in all of his writings appears to have been the short story, which is where his "Red Cavalry" stories all fit. This series of stories was based on Babel´s impressions of the 1920 Soviet military campaign against Poland by the Red army led by GeneralBudyonny (later to become a Marshall of the Soviet Union). Babel participated in this campaign, which was largely fought on the plains of Volhynia (now straddling the present Polish-Ukranian border). In late May of 1920, the First Cavalry of the Red Army rode into that province as part of the Soviet Government´s first foreign offensive, aimed at spreading the doctrine of World Revolution to Poland first, then to Europe and finally to the entire world.



Babel´s stories are loosely linked together cobble together a number of stories which follow the initial successes of this offensive in the summer of 1920 on through the increasingly bitter defeats which led to the Soviet retreat that autumn. The stories were originally published in various magazines and newspapers between 1923 and 1926, and according to the introduction to the present edition, the reading public "was torn between delight at Babel´s potent new literary voice and the horror at the brutality portrayed in the stories," which were actually a blend of fiction and fact.



The grim quality of Babel´s literary genius is evident in story after story. Consider the line, "The orange sun is rolling across the sky like a severed head," which comes from the first story, entitled "Crossing the River Zbrucz"; or this, from "Dolgushov´s Death": "The POles had advanced to the forest about three versts away from us, and set up their machine gunssomewhere nearby. Flying bullets whimper and yelp; their lament has reached an unbearable pitch. The bullets plunge into the earth and writhe, quaking with impatience."



Actually, the stories tell a lot more than about that ugly little war. They also paint a valuable picture of what must have been a dynamic mix of cultures - Jewish, Ukranian, Polish and Russian in that part of Eastern Europe in 1920. And sometimes the stories are laced with a rather engaging form of gallows humor which is hard to resist appreciating. I would dearly like to insert one story called "Konkin" in its entirety here, but I think I might run into copyright problems. So in that regard, I will simply post a quick excerpt:



"Me and Sprika Zabuty ended up riding off a ways from the forest. We look - and yes, two and two does make four! - no less than a hundred and fifty paces away, we see a dust cloud which is either the staff or the cavalry transport. If it´s the staff - that´s great, if it´s the cavalry transport - thats even better! The boy´s tattered clothes hung in rags, their shirts barely covering their manhood.

"Zabuty!" I yell over toSprika, telling him he´s a son of a whore, that his mother is a you-know-what, or whatever (I leave this part up to you, as you´re the official orator here). Isn´t that their staff that´s riding off there?"
"You can bet your life it´s their staff!" Sprika yells back. "The only thing is, we´re two and they´re eight!"
"Let´s go for it, Sprika!" I shout. "Either way, I´m going to hurl some mud at their chasubles! Let´s go die for a pickle and World Revolution!"






Anyway, as the book´s notes remind us, the Soviet Union wanted to forget this disastrous campaign. Babel´s Red Cavalry stories, however kept the fiasco in the public eye in both the Soviet Union and abroad, ever since. Sadly for Babel, his work eventually came to be deemed politically incorrect at a time when Stalin´s purges were ravaging Russian culture. On May 15, 1939, agents of the Soviet secret police burst into Babel´s house and arrested him. In the process, they also gathered up many stacks of unpublished documents in his posession. Immediately he was to become a non-person, his name blotted out and removed from official publications. They nexecuted him in 1940. It took until 1954 for his name to finally become officially exonerated, but for a long time thereafter, his books were only published in censored form for many more years. Now his reputation has recovered significantly, and his writings are again being praised, both inside and outside of Russia. The small picture, above is a photograph of Isaac Babel.

So there you have it, for this trip. Today is my last day here in El Tabo. MY friends Diego and Luisa have invited me to enjoy a final dinner together with them and two of thier workers, Orlando (the guitar player) and Carlos. The food´s on them, while I am obliged to provide the wine...

Monday, January 05, 2009

COOL AND CLOUDY ON THE CENTRAL CHILEAN COAST


The weather since my arrival here on the central Chilean coast on New Year´s Eve has been mostly cool and cloudy - more typical to the December weather patterns than the usual January sunshine. That´s not been a problem for me, but no doubt it has meant a disappointing weekend for many vacationers from Santiago, although they seem intent to make the best of it regardless.

The map I have provided here shows the central coast between Valparaiso to the north and San Antonio to the south. If you click on it you will be able to see a larger version, and you will be able to see exactly where I am: El Tabo, just below the center of the map on the coastal road from Algarrobo and El Quisco to Cartagena and San Antonio.





Here is a larger map which shows the various routes one can take from Santiago to reach the central coastal region. My usual route heads west from Santiago on the Costanera Norte, which feeds into Highway No. 68 just past the international airport on the extreme west of the city. I follow that route through the two major tunnels (Lo Prado and Tunel Zapata) to the turnoff just east of Casablanca, whyich is signed to Algarrobo0 but which I turn off of on the side route to Tortoral, a small rural village. That route leads me directly into Isla Negra, the famous site of the poet Pablo Neruda´s famous coastal home, which is only a couple of kilometers north of El Tabo.

Anyway, there is not much happening here today, except that I am spending plenty of time reading and taking in the views overlooking the South Pacific.. In my next post I will venture to give some small reviews of my beach front summer reading. Chao...

Sunday, January 04, 2009

THE NEW FACE OF LAS SIETE CABAÑAS


















Here it is January 4th and my planned stay here at El Tabo´s Las Siete Cabañas is already half over. Time flies when you don´t have very much of it, and this time, a good portion of that time has been consumed while construction workers have been pounding and hammering away.














The top pictures show cabaña no.4 and no.5 (the one I´m staying in) with new rough wood exterior siding as well as one photo showing the view overlooking the residential zone of El Tabo as seen from the unfinished swimming pool.




The next series of pictures show the rather striking pavilion that was recently finished. It was under the roof of the pavilion where we celebrated New Year´s with a midnight feast.




Here is a photo of the unfinished swimming pool and next to it is a picture of four new mini-cabañas, which will likely be used by weekend tourists. They are tiny (one room, plus bath) and do not posess kitchens like the larger, free-standing cabañas have.
Actually my own cabaña was still in need of work when I moved in on New Year´s Eve. Therer were several windows that were missing panes of glass, and Diego covered these with a temporary covering of plastic sheeting. This morning I finally got my final glass panes installed - in the bathroom.
Now I don´t know if I mentioned this in my last post, but once again, I have been plagued by fleas, which no doubt came from that pesky little dog El Negro and his partner in crime, Lorenzo. Diego says that both dogs are again infested with the little buggers, and no doubt the dogs had been able to freely enter the cabañas at will while the workers were busy re-doing the kitchen and bathroom in cabaña no. 5 before my arrival. I recall that El Negro really liked to climb up to sit on the living room easy chairs last year before I banished him. Anyway, the bites are already fairly numerous, and they itch like hell.
So yesterday I went into town and bought a cannister of Raid, and returned to spray down the cabaña. And during my absence, Diego had a couple of his workers spray insecticide around the approaches to the cabaña. Even so, I think I had a few new bites when I woke up, so I stripped the bed and sprayed that as well. Hopefully that will take care of the problem, but you never know. As I recall from last year, when I had this same problem, these bites take some time to stop itching, so I suppose that I´ll still be feeling some of that when I fly home on the evening of January 13th. Que mala suerte!

Friday, January 02, 2009

BACK IN CHILE ONCE AGAIN









I Know, New Year´s has already come and gone, and only now I am getting to the point of posting my first blog entry while on this new but relativels short visit to Chile. Figure that the delay was necessary because once my long and tiring flight landed in Santiago, ending 17 hours of near non-stop travel, things quickly became complicated. To begin with, my friend/agent Andres has had to deal with some dramatic changes in his own business and life, largely due to the difficult economy (yes, Chile is suffering too).






He had to close down his office in Santiago Centro (the Lys Rent-A-Car office on Miraflores) and also found himself a much smaller apartment out in the non-tourist urban high-rise barrio of Vitacura. He consolidated his car rental business (after selling off all of his cars) into a partnership with a friend who runs another car rental business, ironically-named "Free Rent-A-Car." Of course, the cars aren´t free...don´t ask me why the name...




The two pictures on the right present a couple of views of the urban canyons of the high-rise district in Santiago´s barrio Vitacura, and were taken from the north-facing window of Andres´apartment.


My first night in Chile was spent in that apartment, and since Andres had to work in the afternoon, I too advantage of the solitude afforded by being left alone in his apartment to sleep for most of the afternoon. That evening, however, I went with Andres to pick up his three kids and we came back to the apartment where he staged a small welcoming party for me with lots of party nibbles and of course, Andres´very special recipie for pisco sour. His girlfriend Cecilia (better known as "Chica") came by and joined the gathering.


The next day (December 31) I got my rental car from "Free" Rent-A-Car and made my way onto the Costanera Norte, which is the commuter highway that runs under the Rio Mapocho and through Santiago Centro to Carretera No. 68, which leads past the airport on the west side of the metropolis and then through a pair of tunnels en route to the coast and the cities of Valparaiso and Viña Del Mar. Of course Ruta 68 is a busy highway on most days, but this was the day of New Year´s Eve, and hordes of Santiaguenos were on the road driving out to Valparaiso for the massive New Year´s celebrations there. The traffic reminded me of the worst excesses of the L.A. Freeways on any given Friday afternoon, but of course, these Chilean highways aren´t free...at regular intervals there are mandatory toll booths, in Chilean, known as Plazas de Peaje, where all vehicles are obligated to pass through and pay the road tolls. Of course, these toll stops are common throughout the major improved Chilean highway system, and usually the stop to pay is a fairly seamless excercise. But on this day, it almost reminded me of a crowded U.S. customs station on the Mexican border.


Luckily I only had to pass through two of these rather significant impediments before taking the turnoff to Algarrobo, a decent two-lane highway with many fewer cars. The turn left to the pueblito of El Tortoral followed quickly, and soon I was passing through Isla Negra and again past the Casa de Neruda and finally, El Tabo and my digs at Las Siete Cabañas. There´s a picture of the view from my good old Cabaña No. 5, where I once again settled in, just like a year ago, but this time, for only a stay of eight days, and not four weeks.
My reunion with Diego and Luisa and their two teenage kids, Diego hijo and Conie, was warm and wonderful. We all were glad that I had returned for an encore visit (my third stay here) and after I´d gone into El Tabo Centro to get groceries, we go9t together for one of Luisa´s fine almuerzos (lunch).
For New Year´s, we got together again under the new outdoor pavilion roof and had a marvelous cena (dinner) at midnight while watching the fireworks over Bahía Cartagena to the south. Once we´d finished our meal we kept on, dancing and partying far into the wee hours of the morning, which is the custom here on the Chilean coast. For many Chileans, the drinking and making merry over New Year´s continues until dawn, but I could only make it to 4:30 a.m. before I had to excuse myself to drag myself back to my cabin where I collapsed into bed for a ragged sleep.
You can imagine that New Year´s Day for me didn´t amount to much. It didn´t for Diego and Luisa either, as everyone pretty much slept through the morning ans then spent the afternoon quietly resting up for the onset of 2009.
In my next post I will say a bit about all of the construction going on here at Las Siete Cabañas, which is in the midst of a major facelift and overhaul. Hopefully, I)´ll get that posted tomorrow. Until then, I´ll wish all who visit here a Feliz Año Nuevo, or a Happy New Year!